Kurmadera Beach

Overview

Kurmadera (also written Kurma Dera / Khurmadera) is one of the least-visited beaches within reach of Port Blair — a long, empty west-facing shore past Collinpur on the far side of the island, where the road gives out and you walk the last couple of kilometres. It’s known locally for its sunsets, its shells (locals will tell you the name comes from the blue-tinged shells that litter the tideline; others say kurma — turtle — for the nesting that occasionally happens here), and for the simple fact that on most days you’ll be the only people on it.

This is not a beach with a car park and a coconut stall. It’s a small expedition, and it rewards you accordingly.

Getting there

Take the road west out of Port Blair through Ferrargunj and on towards Tirur / Collinpur; Collinpur Beach itself (a lovely, easily-reached “sunset bay” with a proper approach road) is 30-odd km and about an hour. Continue past Collinpur towards Manpur village; the road narrows and turns rough — a jeep or a sturdy two-wheeler is better than a small car, and locals may offer to run you the last part. Where the track ends, it’s a 2–2.5 km walk along a creek on a path that can be very muddy and slushy after rain, before you break out onto the sand.

Autos won’t take you all the way. Hire a car and driver for the day, or a scooter if you’re comfortable on bad roads, and ask at Collinpur for the current state of the track — it changes with the season.

What to do

• Sunset. The beach faces west with nothing in the way; it’s the reason most people make the effort.
• Beachcomb — shells, driftwood, coral. Photograph, don’t collect.
• Wade in the shallow, calm water on a still day (read the crocodile note first).
• Combine with Collinpur — swim there (sandy, gently shelving, safe), then push on to Kurmadera for the evening.

Cautions

• Crocodiles. Saltwater crocodiles are present in the creeks along this coast and sightings — and occasional attacks — are reported around Kurmadera. Don’t swim near the creek mouth, don’t linger at the water’s edge at dawn or dusk, and if locals say stay out, stay out.
• Daylight. The walk back along the creek path is not something to do in the dark. If you’re there for sunset, start walking as the sun touches the horizon and carry a torch anyway.
• Mud and leeches on the path in and after the rains; wear closed shoes you can wash.
• No signal, no water, no help. Tell your hotel where you’re going, carry more water than you think you need, and go in a pair at minimum.
• Forest Department restrictions can apply in this area; if there’s a check-post, comply.

Nearby

Collinpur Beach on the way (sunset bay, swimmable); Wandoor and the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park are on the same side of the island; Chidiya Tapu is the alternative sunset drive from Port Blair in the other direction.