Kurmadera Beach

Overview

Kurmadera (also written Kurma Dera / Khurmadera) is one of the least-visited beaches within reach of Port Blair — a long, empty west-facing shore past Collinpur on the far side of the island, where the road gives out and you walk the last couple of kilometres. It’s known locally for its sunsets, its shells (locals will tell you the name comes from the blue-tinged shells that litter the tideline; others say kurma — turtle — for the nesting that occasionally happens here), and for the simple fact that on most days you’ll be the only people on it.

It is also one of the few pure coral sand beaches in the islands. The sand here is not fine silica but broken coral — coarse, pale, calcium-carbonate grains rather than quartz. You notice it immediately underfoot: the grains are bigger and looser, so you sink into them as you walk, and water drains straight down through the beach instead of sheeting back down the slope the way it does on a silica shore.

This is not a beach with a car park and a coconut stall. It’s a small expedition, and it rewards you accordingly — a genuine hidden gem, and one of the reasons the community that looks after it would like it kept that way.

Getting there

Take the road west out of Port Blair through Ferrargunj and on towards Tirur / Collinpur; Collinpur Beach itself (a lovely, easily-reached “sunset bay” with a proper approach road) is 30-odd km and about an hour. Continue past Collinpur towards Manpur village; the road narrows and turns rough — a jeep or a sturdy two-wheeler is better than a small car, and locals may offer to run you the last part. Where the track ends, it’s a 2–2.5 km walk along a creek on a path that can be very muddy and slushy after rain, before you break out onto the sand.

Autos won’t take you all the way. Hire a car and driver for the day, or a scooter if you’re comfortable on bad roads, and ask at Collinpur for the current state of the track — it changes with the season.

What to do

• Sunset. The beach faces west with nothing in the way; it’s the reason most people make the effort.
• Climb the rock. A single large rock sits on the beach and can be scrambled up — the best spot for the sunset, and the vantage point for the view below.
• Beachcomb — shells, driftwood, coral. Photograph, don’t collect.
• Wade in the shallow, calm water on a still day (read the crocodile note first).
• Combine with Collinpur — swim there (sandy, gently shelving, safe), then push on to Kurmadera for the evening.

North Sentinel on the horizon

From the top of the rock, on a clear day, you can see North Sentinel Island — roughly 50 km out to the west. It is a low grey line rather than a landmark, and it needs clean air; haze, cloud on the horizon or afternoon glare will hide it entirely. Early evening before the sun drops into the haze band tends to be the best chance.

The sightline is real rather than folklore: North Sentinel’s high ground stands around 120 m, which alone carries it about 40 km over the curve of the earth, and a few metres of extra height under your own feet is enough to close the remaining distance.

The island itself is completely off-limits. North Sentinel is home to the Sentinelese, who have no contact with the outside world, and Indian law prohibits approaching it — there is an exclusion zone around the island and no boat will take you near it. Looking at it from 50 km away is the only legitimate way anyone sees it.

Cautions

• Crocodiles. Saltwater crocodiles are present in the creeks along this coast and sightings — and occasional attacks — are reported around Kurmadera. Don’t swim near the creek mouth, don’t linger at the water’s edge at dawn or dusk, and if locals say stay out, stay out.
• Daylight. The walk back along the creek path is not something to do in the dark. If you’re there for sunset, start walking as the sun touches the horizon and carry a torch anyway.
• Mud and leeches on the path in and after the rains; wear closed shoes you can wash.
• Coral sand is sharp. Broken coral is not forgiving on bare feet the way fine sand is — keep sandals on, and take more care than usual if there is any swell running you over the shallows.
• No signal, no water, no help. Tell your hotel where you’re going, carry more water than you think you need, and go in a pair at minimum.
• Forest Department restrictions can apply in this area; if there’s a check-post, comply.

Nearby

Collinpur Beach on the way (sunset bay, swimmable); Wandoor and the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park — with Jolly Buoy and Red Skin — are on the same side of the island; Chidiya Tapu is the alternative sunset drive from Port Blair in the other direction.

Staying out here

The Andaman Sunset View Resort, known locally as Tasvir, sits at Kurma Dera (Post Herbertabad village), roughly 39 km from Port Blair. It is run by the Malayali coconut plantation community settled here, who also look after the beach itself — which is why a shore this remote stays as clean as it does.

The resort has beach access and a restaurant, and takes cash only — there is no ATM out this way, so bring what you need. Staying overnight also solves the beach’s main constraint: you are no longer racing the light back along the creek path.