Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)

Overview

Havelock — officially Swaraj Dweep since 2018, though everyone still says Havelock — is the island most people picture when they think of the Andamans: long white beaches, turquoise shallows, dense forest running right down to the sand, and a laid-back strip of resorts, dive shops and cafés. It’s the busiest tourist island in the archipelago, and for good reason: it packs the region’s most famous beach (Radhanagar), its best-known snorkelling spot (Elephant Beach) and the biggest concentration of dive centres in India into a place you can cross by scooter in half an hour.

The island is part of Ritchie’s Archipelago, north-east of Port Blair. It was settled by Bengali refugees after Partition, and the villages are still numbered the way the settlement was laid out — you’ll hear locals refer to “Village 3” or “Beach No. 5” more often than to names.

Getting there

By ferry from Port Blair. Private catamarans (Makruzz, Nautika, Green Ocean, Sealink, ITT Majestic) sail daily from Haddo / Phoenix Bay jetty and take about 90 minutes to 2 hours. The government ferry is cheaper and slower (2.5–3 h) and books out early with residents. Morning departures are the norm; there are usually afternoon sailings too in season.

From Neil Island. Roughly an hour on the same private ferries — most people do Port Blair → Havelock → Neil → Port Blair or the reverse.

Seaplane / helicopter. Occasionally operated, weather-dependent and mostly reserved for islanders and emergencies. Don’t plan around it.

Book ferries in advance in December–January and around Indian long weekends; the good time slots go first. Carry a photo ID — it’s checked at boarding.

Getting around

Scooter hire (₹400–600/day, licence required) is the standard way to move. Autos and taxis wait at the jetty and outside the bigger resorts; agree a fare before you get in. Distances are short: jetty to Radhanagar is about 12 km, jetty to Kalapathar about 8 km. Fuel is available near the market but can run short — fill up when you can.

Beaches and things to do

• Radhanagar Beach (Beach No. 7) — the postcard beach on the west coast; sunset is the show.
• Elephant Beach — shallow reef right off the sand; snorkelling, sea walk, jet-ski. Reach by boat or a 40-minute forest walk.
• Kalapathar Beach — quiet, black-rock east-coast beach; sunrise.
• Neil’s Cove — the secluded lagoon a short walk north of Radhanagar.
• Beach No. 3 & 5 (Govind Nagar / Vijay Nagar) — the resort strip on the east coast; calm, tidal, good for wading and long walks at low tide.
• Scuba diving — Havelock is the dive capital of India. Beginner “discover” dives, PADI/SSI courses and fun dives on sites like The Wall, Johnny’s Gorge, Dixon’s Pinnacle and Jackson’s Bar. Book a day or two ahead in season.
• Kayaking through the mangroves — guided trips near the jetty, including bioluminescence paddles on dark nights (roughly October–March).
• Game fishing, sailing and stand-up paddle — available through the dive shops and a couple of specialist operators.

Where to stay

Accommodation clusters in three areas: around Beach 3–5 on the east coast (most resorts, mid-range to luxury, close to restaurants), around the jetty and market (budget guesthouses, ATMs, pharmacies) and near Radhanagar on the west coast (a handful of quieter, pricier resorts). Beach 5 has the best spread of cafés and dive centres.

Practical notes

• ATMs exist near the jetty and market but run dry on weekends and holidays; carry cash. Most resorts and dive shops accept UPI/cards.
• Mobile network: BSNL is most reliable, Airtel and Jio work around the market and Beach 5; data is slow everywhere. Don’t count on video calls.
• Power goes off for short stretches; resorts have generators.
• Sun and sea: currents off the west coast can be strong at high tide and in the monsoon; swim where locals do and heed lifeguards at Radhanagar. Wear reef-safe sunscreen and don’t stand on coral.
• Monsoon (June–September) brings rain, rough seas and frequent ferry cancellations. Prices drop, but plan slack days.
• Wildlife: leave the deer, monitor lizards and hermit crabs alone; saltwater crocodiles are occasionally sighted in creeks and at Neil’s Cove — respect the warning signs.

Nearby

Neil Island is an hour south by ferry and makes a natural second stop; Ross Island and North Bay are half-day trips from Port Blair, usually done before or after Havelock.